Newspaper Column » Fresh lemon can instantly enhance flavor

Fresh lemon can instantly enhance flavor

by Linda Hoffman

This column appeared in The Coloradoan on March 11, 2009.

The clean, tart taste of lemon has long been a popular flavor used in both sweet and savory culinary traditions the world over. Winter is citrus season, and we are coming to the end of abundant U.S.-raised lemon production, although they are available year 'round in supermarkets. Use lemon, just a quick squeeze of a fresh one, to add delicate yet complex flavor to sautéed fish, steamed asparagus or broccoli, to marinades, sauces or salad dressings. Lemon lightens and brightens the flavor of almost any food.

The key to complex flavor is balance, not quantity. Use a light hand when seasoning a dish, remembering that you can always add more of any or all ingredients to create balanced flavors. We've all suffered through a dish with too much curry powder or too much salt. One ingredient can take over the whole dish, overpowering the rest of the ingredients, leaving us wishing we'd made an alternative menu selection, chosen another recipe, or paid closer attention to what we are doing.

For a tasty side dish, melt 1-2 tbsp. butter in a saucepan, add a squeeze of fresh lemon, 1 minced garlic clove, a pinch of salt and pepper, and cook until the garlic softens. Toss with hot brown rice or pasta, or steamed vegetables. Nice with fish, lamb or chicken. There is an affinity between butter, lemon, garlic and parsley that makes it a classic combination. I'd stop short of adding it to popcorn, but almost anything else, from chicken to lamb to green beans is fair game. Always balance acid (lemon, vinegar, dry wines) with salt (sea salt, soy, tamari, or fish sauce) and fat (butter, olive, coconut, or peanut oil). This becomes clear when making salad dressings, as too much oil feels heavy, too much vinegar is sour. Practice makes perfect, and with enough experience, you'll know the right balance when you've achieved it.

Meyer lemon is a less acidic, more floral lemon, marvelously fragrant. Available by the bag of 6-7 lemons ($2.99 at Whole Foods), Meyer lemons are easier to squeeze, less mouth-puckering, and a delight to use. Their thin skins give them less shelf life, and their short season makes them a late winter/early spring treasure. Store them in the refrigerator, but bring them to room temperature before squeezing for best results. Enjoy the clean flavors of this quick lemon dessert while lemons are plentiful and inexpensive.

Meyer Lemon Sorbet

1 cup fresh lemon juice (about 4 lemons)
1 cup water
2/3 cup sugar
2 tsp. fine lemon zest (no white)

Bring the water and sugar to a boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Remove from heat and let cool. Stir in the lemon juice and zest, and freeze in a non-reactive container. After about 60-90 minutes, stir the partially frozen sorbet thoroughly, incorporating some air into the mixture. Freeze again. To serve, scrape the tines of a fork over the top, producing a frothy and light dessert to scoop into small bowls. Makes about 2 cups.

Bon appétit!